Attached is the pdf file for part 4 of the Understanding your Camera course. Last month was pretty slow, so let's try and get the enthusiasm of parts 1 and 2 back on track.
Cheers
Bob
Cheers
Bob
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The "sorry we 're working on the network preparing for the NBN'' excuse is wearing very thin. Only intermitent internet access this last week - again. Anyhow seems to be OK so far this morning.
I did manage to upload part 4 yesterday, but didn't get a chance to explain a couple of things.
The discussion re using the histogram to check your exposure relates to the image and histogram which appears on the LCD screen AFTER the image has been taken. Apart from only alerting you to any prblems after the fact, it is also only a jpeg representation of the image - not the ACTUAL RAW image. Nonetheless it is still a valuable tool. There is a more accurate "live histogram" which is available on some late model Nikon and Canon cameras. With Nikon cameras this feature appears to be limited to prosumer and professional models, but maybe available under a different name in other models. The big advantage of this feature is that it is interactive and displays the RAW image histogram in realtime BEFORE the image is taken.
IIf you are interested and prepared to forward to me the make and model of your camera, I can check whether this feature is available to you. I will then post details of how to access and use it for the different cameras.You can post the info here or PM me if you prefer.
Cheers
BobLast edited by oldgreybeard; 5th May 2018, 10:49 AM. -
OK, so here goes Assignment 4. Problems encountered by this L plater on the "Car For Sale" assignment were numerous - mainly self inflicted and just one due to outside interference.. The self inflicted problems still did what Bob intended - to.get us out of our comfort zone, and learn more about our camera. The (steep) learning curve was caused by yours truly using a wide angle lens (just arrived) for the first time, using Manual mode (as instructed) for the first time, and using RAW and doing my own editing for the first time. Thank God we don't still use film - I would be bankrupt! The only external problems were caused by the reflections, and again were caused by me - I shouldn't have washed the car.
So here are the results. All comments, criticisms, and advice are very welcome.
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#3.1Editing a commentNice pics Gary. How much for the car???. So nice to see something on the forum. I really miss it . I wonder what happened to Brad.? maybe hiding away cause The Blues won. -
Thanks, dee kay. Car is like me - priceless (but mechanically much better than me). My guess is that Ironwood is busy watching replays of last year's State of Origin matches (and pretending they are the 2018 ones). Sorry, Brad.
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Oops, forgot to show details of settings used. The ISO was left on automatic, hence some funny (?) numbers. All taken on Nikon D7100 with Tokina 12-24mm lens.
1 Instrument panel f4 1/40 24mm ISO5000
2. Interior front f6.3 1/250 12mm ISO2200
3. Left hand side f5.6 1/125 22mm ISO 200
4. Right hand side f7.1 1/125 22mm ISO ??Comment
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Looking good Gary. I will comment in more detail in a couple of days. One question at this time, in the image of the instrument panel - has this been serverly cropped or the image lightened quite a bit to bring out details in the shadows?
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Bob,
It was cropped slightly and I don 't think I made any drastic changes but having played with what seemed like millions of images I couldn't be sure. I used Topaz and adjusted the black, and white, and also used their clarity button. The other thing that throws me, is that I use a laptop and the "apparent" lightness or darkness varies dramatically with the angle of the screen. And I never know which is the true image- so I guess! This is the original (as recorded by the camera in JPEG - I use two cards with one JPEG and the other RAW).
Cheers, Gary
Last edited by Gary H; 4th July 2018, 06:40 PM. Reason: Because stupid here put in the wrong photo as the original DUH,,,,,,,,,,,, now fixedComment
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Hi Guys and Gals, I'm home again after having a visit to the Surat hospital and having to cut our holiday short by 2 weeks. However, all's now well and we can get back to work.
From your last post Gary, there is a major misunderstanding.The jpeg image is a camera generated image using the original RAW image and the settings you have made on your camera. The RAW image which is imported into you computer software is the "Un-altered" image.This is the original (as recorded by the camera in JPEG
In the original post (image 1), the image is much darker and the "noise" (speckling) is much more obvious. Noise will be discussed in future chapters, but almost always becomes more obvious in the shadow areas of the image and 'darkening' or lightening the shadows to bring out more detail in an over/ over exposed image is generally guaranteed to make the noise more obvious. If you copmpare the grey tone of the 'instrument panel' image with the corresponding portion of the second image 'interior front', the first image is about 1 stop darker in my opinion. I would also suggest that the camera generated jpeg is also slightly too dark. To my eyes, the grey tones in the 'interior front' image is what I would expect. SOLUTION: experience in adjusting the tones using the settings which you were using. Take 2 images which should be 'identical' in in respect to the colours - but are NOT- and practice making adjustments to produce the same colours in both images. Take carefull notes as to what results are produced by each change in settings.
The angle of the screen on the laptop does produce some 'interesting' results. My approach is to start windows and then adjust the screen angle until the windows image looks natural - then leave it as is.
To me, image 2 "interior front' is your best image and there is not much you could have done using available light to produce a better image - well done.
Image 3 'Left hand side' is a good result. You could (probably) produce a better result by either tweaking your settings in Topaz to reduce the brightness of the highlights (sorry have never used Topaz so don't know how you would do it.) Can anyone offer asssistance to Gary? Alternatively, you could reduce the 'exposure' to produce an under exposed image and adjust the 'shadows' in Topaz. My preferred solution will be discussed in a later chapter and involves using 2 identical in]mages with one exposed to produce the correct tones in the highlights and the other to produce the correct tones in the shadows. These images are then blended together in the editor - in many ways similar to an HDR adjustment.
Looking forward to seeing your next assignment. You have made considerable improvement in your images since starting the course.
Cheers
Bob
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Thanks, Bob. Glad to hear all is well, but losing a couple of weeks off your trip was bad luck. Look forward to seeing some shots of your journey. Image 1 in my original post was after my try at editing the RAW image. The original, posted later, was the JPEG result of the camera's editing.
It's easy to see that the camera is smarter than I am. My excuse is that the camera has had more practice with RAW images than I have !
Anyway, still having fun and still learning, so thanks for your comments and advice.
Gary
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Problems with nerve pain in right shoulder and arm meant that I took very few photos and even fewer that din;t have motion blur. A good excuse to go on another holiday at a later date.
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